Although most churches have a team of willing hand to help, the verger may well be responsible for the cleaning of the church’s communion vessels and the brass work, and for the upkeep of the interior, including the pews, lectern and choir stalls.
Precious metals
Most communion vessels are made of solid silver, silver-gilt, silver plate or are electroplated; very rarely are they made of gold. Pewter was used for a time, and can still be found. Simple definitions of these terms are as follows:
Gold, silver and silver-gilt will be hallmarked showing the date, place and name of manufacturer.
In the care and maintenance of precious metals the use of any form of abrasive should be avoided at all costs, especially on gold plate and gilt. Washing in soap and warm (not hot) water should be sufficient to keep vessels in regular use in good condition. The occasional use of an impregnated polishing cloth may liven up an item. If a piece of silver becomes particularly marked, then the use of a silver soap/paste will restore the silver without undue abrasion. Any item cleaned with water should be well-drained and dried. Draining is best done by placing the item on a dry cloth which will protect the rim of the chalice and aid with the soaking-up process. An item with open fretwork or prominent decoration will benefit from the use of a hair dryer to remove any lingering moisture. Items not in regular use are best stored in a cool, dark, dry place, preferably wrapped in a cloth or placed in a specifically prepared silver bag. Rubber should not come into contact with silver; never polish silver wearing rubber gloves.
Brass
The essence of cleaning brass is to have clean dust-free cloths. As with the care of precious metals, the least possible pressure should be exercised. Using a pad of cotton wool and a reputable brass cleaner is the safest way to achieve a good result. Wearing rubber gloves will protect the hands from excessive staining whilst avoiding leaving fingerprints on the polished article. When polishing fine work, engraving or pieces with angles and crevices it is essential to use a soft brush to enable crevices to be cleaned out. Dried and hardened polish is unsightly and should be avoided at all costs. Pieces with signs of corrosion can be washed in a solution of washing soda before being rubbed down and polished.
The lacquering of brass is not uncommon, but find out which items are lacquered and take care not to polish them.
Bronze
Bronze should not be polished, though a coat of a good quality furniture polish (bees wax) will add a protective patina. Again, avoid allowing the polish to enter fine engraving and turn white. A soft brush should clear any residue of polish.
Woodwork
Well cared-for woodwork, whether furniture or fittings, will look welcoming and inviting. Lackluster woodwork does not suggest a well-cared for environment and can become a breeding place for beetles and other infestations.
Dusting is an essential part of wood care, although wood will not be preserved by this alone. Regular dusting is the first step to good wood care. Furniture kept up against a wall should be pull out regularly and vacuumed behind.
A warm damp cloth, soaked in a solution vinegar and water, will be sufficient to remove dirt adhering to a polished surface. The wood should be wiped with a clean dry cloth after the use of any water.
The regular use of polish will keep wood both preserved and presentable. The use of paste polishes should be well controlled. As with silver and brass, should the polish dry be allowed to build up in carving then this will look unsightly and take time to remedy.
Glass
Glass and crystal cruets should be washed out regularly to avoid a build-up of residue. A good practice is to alternate the use of the cruet i.e. use a cruet for wine one week and for the water the next; this will prevent any build-up of residue between any particular pair of cruets. Should the inside of glass cruets become difficult to clean, then the use of a little ‘Steredent’ will prove beneficial.
Precious metals
Most communion vessels are made of solid silver, silver-gilt, silver plate or are electroplated; very rarely are they made of gold. Pewter was used for a time, and can still be found. Simple definitions of these terms are as follows:
- Silver-gilt – silver covered with a fine layer of gold,
- Silver plate – a base metal, often copper, covered with a fine layer of silver.
- Electroplated – the plating of a base metal by electrolysis.
- Pewter – an alloy of tin and copper (sometimes lead).
Gold, silver and silver-gilt will be hallmarked showing the date, place and name of manufacturer.
In the care and maintenance of precious metals the use of any form of abrasive should be avoided at all costs, especially on gold plate and gilt. Washing in soap and warm (not hot) water should be sufficient to keep vessels in regular use in good condition. The occasional use of an impregnated polishing cloth may liven up an item. If a piece of silver becomes particularly marked, then the use of a silver soap/paste will restore the silver without undue abrasion. Any item cleaned with water should be well-drained and dried. Draining is best done by placing the item on a dry cloth which will protect the rim of the chalice and aid with the soaking-up process. An item with open fretwork or prominent decoration will benefit from the use of a hair dryer to remove any lingering moisture. Items not in regular use are best stored in a cool, dark, dry place, preferably wrapped in a cloth or placed in a specifically prepared silver bag. Rubber should not come into contact with silver; never polish silver wearing rubber gloves.
Brass
The essence of cleaning brass is to have clean dust-free cloths. As with the care of precious metals, the least possible pressure should be exercised. Using a pad of cotton wool and a reputable brass cleaner is the safest way to achieve a good result. Wearing rubber gloves will protect the hands from excessive staining whilst avoiding leaving fingerprints on the polished article. When polishing fine work, engraving or pieces with angles and crevices it is essential to use a soft brush to enable crevices to be cleaned out. Dried and hardened polish is unsightly and should be avoided at all costs. Pieces with signs of corrosion can be washed in a solution of washing soda before being rubbed down and polished.
The lacquering of brass is not uncommon, but find out which items are lacquered and take care not to polish them.
Bronze
Bronze should not be polished, though a coat of a good quality furniture polish (bees wax) will add a protective patina. Again, avoid allowing the polish to enter fine engraving and turn white. A soft brush should clear any residue of polish.
Woodwork
Well cared-for woodwork, whether furniture or fittings, will look welcoming and inviting. Lackluster woodwork does not suggest a well-cared for environment and can become a breeding place for beetles and other infestations.
Dusting is an essential part of wood care, although wood will not be preserved by this alone. Regular dusting is the first step to good wood care. Furniture kept up against a wall should be pull out regularly and vacuumed behind.
A warm damp cloth, soaked in a solution vinegar and water, will be sufficient to remove dirt adhering to a polished surface. The wood should be wiped with a clean dry cloth after the use of any water.
The regular use of polish will keep wood both preserved and presentable. The use of paste polishes should be well controlled. As with silver and brass, should the polish dry be allowed to build up in carving then this will look unsightly and take time to remedy.
Glass
Glass and crystal cruets should be washed out regularly to avoid a build-up of residue. A good practice is to alternate the use of the cruet i.e. use a cruet for wine one week and for the water the next; this will prevent any build-up of residue between any particular pair of cruets. Should the inside of glass cruets become difficult to clean, then the use of a little ‘Steredent’ will prove beneficial.