Whatever the tradition of a given church, it is inevitable that it will house some vestments, robes and altar linen. Whether it be an ancient set of vestments or an everyday cassock and surplice, care should be a high priority, since, with proper care and attention, fabric will last a great deal longer than treated badly. When worn correctly, garments will look smart and presentable as well as adding to the item’s life-expectancy. For instance, wearing a cope incorrectly can put strain on the fabric and cause weaknesses at bearing points. Wearing a garment correctly is important for, as John Wesley put it, ‘Let it be observed, that slovenliness is no part of religion; no text of Scripture condemns neatness of apparel. Certainly, this is a duty, not a sin. “Cleanliness if, indeed next to godliness”.’
Vestries have many functions, one being to store church textiles. The verger may be responsible for the care of many different textiles and fabrics including wool, cotton, linen, and damask. The cleanliness and tidiness of a vestry or robing room is most important. Cupboards should be large enough to hang the garments with plenty of space to allow an air flow, not over-crowded, and tall enough to prevent garments trailing on the floor.
If a garment is to be stored in a drawer, as few folds as possible should be used. It is advisable to line the drawer as well as to place a layer of tissue paper (non-acidic) over the garment before folding, and to use a roll of tissue in the folds. This will help to reduce the risk of creasing and will act as a rest for heavy embroidery especially gold work.
Listed below are some of the fabrics commonly used in the church, with instruction for their care and upkeep. Old and very precious vestments and fabrics should only be cleaned, repaired or moth-proofed by a proven expert.
Cotton
Cotton should be washed by machine in hot water. Bleach may be used with white cotton, but only in small quantities and not too often. When ironing delicate pieces press through a muslin; in all cases use a hot iron while the fabric is still damp, or use a steam iron.
Silk damask
Soiled silk damask may be dry-cleaned with dry-cleaning solutions (available under many trade names from large chemists) by gently dabbing with a soft dry cloth. On very delicate fabric turn affected area upside down onto clean blotting paper and apply the solution around the stain from the reverse.
Linen and cotton damask
These may be washed by hand or machine in hot water and may be starched. Iron while still damp on the right side with a medium iron. Linen damask is the more hard-wearing of the two.
Linen
Linen is not only pure and aristocratic, it is also sturdy and long-lasting. With the correct care it will give service for decades, but not if it is treated with strong soaps, detergents and bleaches, which can be disastrous. The best way to care for linen is to wash it in soap flakes, though ivory soap is even brighter. If it can be avoided, never use bleach; there is nothing better than sunshine (the natural bleach) to restore linen’s snow-white effect. It is best to iron linen on the wrong side while still wet, ironing any embroidery first. When storing linen avoid cedar-lined drawers as the tend to yellow the fabric.
Silk
Most silk will lose it shape if washed; it should always be dry-cleaned.
Velvet
Velvet may be steam-cleaned either with a seam press or by ironing through a damp cloth. Dust can be effectively removed by dabbing with a damp cloth. Avoid rubbing. Gentle vacuuming is also recommended. NB. Modern synthetic velvet should never have heat applied to it.
Wool
When washing wool avoid hard water, choose a good soap (as supposed to a detergent) and never wash vigorously in hot water.
There are various cleaning problems, which occur more frequently in churches than elsewhere, for which specific guidance is offered below.
Candle wax
If a garment or item of fabric has hot wax dripped on to it this should be left to cool. Never try to wipe it off when still warm. If left to harden for a short while the wax can be peeled off with relative ease. Peel away the excess from the fabric by bending the material. Sometimes wax can be eased away with the aid of a knife, but avoid scraping with a knife as there is always the possibility of pressing the wax may be removed by placing the affected area between two pieces of blotting paper (or good quality brown paper) and applying a warm iron. For wax spills on altar linen another method is to hold the affected area over a bowl or sink and pour warm water, then wash in the normal way. (Trichlorethylene will help to remove stubborn residue.)
Damp
Dampness is a perennial problem. Excess moisture in the air will accelerate the decomposition of most fabrics. Fifty-five per cent humidity is ideal for storing fabrics. If dampness does occur in a vestry, or a particular cupboard, then the affected area should be subject to gentle heat – never blast with a hot fire or intense heat as this could split wood and cause further damage. Fabrics should also be subjected to a slow gentle heat. For slight problems with damp, and as a precaution against seasonal effects, a small quantity of thymol crystals or silica gel in the drawer or the bottom of a cupboard will help to monitor the situation.
High temperature (direct heat)
All textiles should be protected from high intensive heat. Exposure to extreme heat has a damaging effect, especially on man-made fabrics such as nylon, and also on woollen garments. Even with linen and cotton, care should be taken. When washing in hot water do not boil for too long, as this can weaken the fabric.
Lipstick
To remove lipstick from purificators, wet the item and rub on a small amount of glycerine or glycerine-based soap (such as Pears) over the affected area, set aside for a short while, then was as normal.
Moth
Two particular breeding grounds for moth are soiled areas of garments (collar and under arms) and fluff. With regards to the latter, frequent vacuuming of vestries and cupboards is essential and will help to control the problem.
Any area of a garment at high risk of being soiled should be laundered regularly, not just prior to main festivals of the Church year. This is particularly important with the amice, ruff, and surplice, which are make of white cloth and easily soiled.
Cassocks are another particularly vulnerable item needing care. Whether in constant use or only used once a week, they do become breeding grounds for moth.
Moth larvae prefer animal fibres such as cotton and linen. The introduction of synthetic fabrics in the twelfth century has helped reduce the incidence of this pest.
One method of ridding a garment of moth is to place it in an air-tight plastic bag with a small quantity of benzene crystals and leave for a few days, vacuum the garment thoroughly and store in a clean cupboard.
Rust
Moisten the affected area or stain with lemon juice and leave for short while, without letting the juice dry on the fabric, rinse with water containing a little ammonia, then give a final rinse in clear water before washing as normal.
Scorch marks
Depending on the degree of burn, scorch marks can be removed by brushing with a stiff clothes brush, which removes the burnt end of the fibres.
Ink
Ink may be removed with a mild solution of methylated spirits and hot soft (distilled) water applied as soon as possible.
Wine
A spill of red wine may be removed by applying a little white wine to the area before washing. Rubbing salt on the stain to another remedy.
Sunlight
Although with fabrics such as white linen, sunlight is to be recommended, other coloured textiles should be protected from the rays of the sun. The ultra-violet content of sunlight can be destructive to textiles and printed materials, in particular synthetic fabrics such as nylon and polyester.
Tar (soot from candles)
Treat as for removing residue of wax, then soak a small piece of cotton in a little lighter fuel, and rub into stain working in from the outside towards the centre. If the stain is small then use a dabbing motion. Avoid spreading the stain outwards at all costs. An alternative to lighter fuel is eucalyptus oil.
Dust
From time to time vestments may need to be vacuumed to release any dust caught in a weave. When these vestments are in a delicate condition, or contain gold couching or any embroidery, it is advisable to vacuum through a piece of muslin. To do this it is helpful to construct a square wooden frame (about 10” x 10”), stretch over a piece of muslin and staple to the frame. Vacuuming through this will prevent any loose fabric or gold work being lost.
Vestries have many functions, one being to store church textiles. The verger may be responsible for the care of many different textiles and fabrics including wool, cotton, linen, and damask. The cleanliness and tidiness of a vestry or robing room is most important. Cupboards should be large enough to hang the garments with plenty of space to allow an air flow, not over-crowded, and tall enough to prevent garments trailing on the floor.
If a garment is to be stored in a drawer, as few folds as possible should be used. It is advisable to line the drawer as well as to place a layer of tissue paper (non-acidic) over the garment before folding, and to use a roll of tissue in the folds. This will help to reduce the risk of creasing and will act as a rest for heavy embroidery especially gold work.
Listed below are some of the fabrics commonly used in the church, with instruction for their care and upkeep. Old and very precious vestments and fabrics should only be cleaned, repaired or moth-proofed by a proven expert.
Cotton
Cotton should be washed by machine in hot water. Bleach may be used with white cotton, but only in small quantities and not too often. When ironing delicate pieces press through a muslin; in all cases use a hot iron while the fabric is still damp, or use a steam iron.
Silk damask
Soiled silk damask may be dry-cleaned with dry-cleaning solutions (available under many trade names from large chemists) by gently dabbing with a soft dry cloth. On very delicate fabric turn affected area upside down onto clean blotting paper and apply the solution around the stain from the reverse.
Linen and cotton damask
These may be washed by hand or machine in hot water and may be starched. Iron while still damp on the right side with a medium iron. Linen damask is the more hard-wearing of the two.
Linen
Linen is not only pure and aristocratic, it is also sturdy and long-lasting. With the correct care it will give service for decades, but not if it is treated with strong soaps, detergents and bleaches, which can be disastrous. The best way to care for linen is to wash it in soap flakes, though ivory soap is even brighter. If it can be avoided, never use bleach; there is nothing better than sunshine (the natural bleach) to restore linen’s snow-white effect. It is best to iron linen on the wrong side while still wet, ironing any embroidery first. When storing linen avoid cedar-lined drawers as the tend to yellow the fabric.
Silk
Most silk will lose it shape if washed; it should always be dry-cleaned.
Velvet
Velvet may be steam-cleaned either with a seam press or by ironing through a damp cloth. Dust can be effectively removed by dabbing with a damp cloth. Avoid rubbing. Gentle vacuuming is also recommended. NB. Modern synthetic velvet should never have heat applied to it.
Wool
When washing wool avoid hard water, choose a good soap (as supposed to a detergent) and never wash vigorously in hot water.
There are various cleaning problems, which occur more frequently in churches than elsewhere, for which specific guidance is offered below.
Candle wax
If a garment or item of fabric has hot wax dripped on to it this should be left to cool. Never try to wipe it off when still warm. If left to harden for a short while the wax can be peeled off with relative ease. Peel away the excess from the fabric by bending the material. Sometimes wax can be eased away with the aid of a knife, but avoid scraping with a knife as there is always the possibility of pressing the wax may be removed by placing the affected area between two pieces of blotting paper (or good quality brown paper) and applying a warm iron. For wax spills on altar linen another method is to hold the affected area over a bowl or sink and pour warm water, then wash in the normal way. (Trichlorethylene will help to remove stubborn residue.)
Damp
Dampness is a perennial problem. Excess moisture in the air will accelerate the decomposition of most fabrics. Fifty-five per cent humidity is ideal for storing fabrics. If dampness does occur in a vestry, or a particular cupboard, then the affected area should be subject to gentle heat – never blast with a hot fire or intense heat as this could split wood and cause further damage. Fabrics should also be subjected to a slow gentle heat. For slight problems with damp, and as a precaution against seasonal effects, a small quantity of thymol crystals or silica gel in the drawer or the bottom of a cupboard will help to monitor the situation.
High temperature (direct heat)
All textiles should be protected from high intensive heat. Exposure to extreme heat has a damaging effect, especially on man-made fabrics such as nylon, and also on woollen garments. Even with linen and cotton, care should be taken. When washing in hot water do not boil for too long, as this can weaken the fabric.
Lipstick
To remove lipstick from purificators, wet the item and rub on a small amount of glycerine or glycerine-based soap (such as Pears) over the affected area, set aside for a short while, then was as normal.
Moth
Two particular breeding grounds for moth are soiled areas of garments (collar and under arms) and fluff. With regards to the latter, frequent vacuuming of vestries and cupboards is essential and will help to control the problem.
Any area of a garment at high risk of being soiled should be laundered regularly, not just prior to main festivals of the Church year. This is particularly important with the amice, ruff, and surplice, which are make of white cloth and easily soiled.
Cassocks are another particularly vulnerable item needing care. Whether in constant use or only used once a week, they do become breeding grounds for moth.
Moth larvae prefer animal fibres such as cotton and linen. The introduction of synthetic fabrics in the twelfth century has helped reduce the incidence of this pest.
One method of ridding a garment of moth is to place it in an air-tight plastic bag with a small quantity of benzene crystals and leave for a few days, vacuum the garment thoroughly and store in a clean cupboard.
Rust
Moisten the affected area or stain with lemon juice and leave for short while, without letting the juice dry on the fabric, rinse with water containing a little ammonia, then give a final rinse in clear water before washing as normal.
Scorch marks
Depending on the degree of burn, scorch marks can be removed by brushing with a stiff clothes brush, which removes the burnt end of the fibres.
Ink
Ink may be removed with a mild solution of methylated spirits and hot soft (distilled) water applied as soon as possible.
Wine
A spill of red wine may be removed by applying a little white wine to the area before washing. Rubbing salt on the stain to another remedy.
Sunlight
Although with fabrics such as white linen, sunlight is to be recommended, other coloured textiles should be protected from the rays of the sun. The ultra-violet content of sunlight can be destructive to textiles and printed materials, in particular synthetic fabrics such as nylon and polyester.
Tar (soot from candles)
Treat as for removing residue of wax, then soak a small piece of cotton in a little lighter fuel, and rub into stain working in from the outside towards the centre. If the stain is small then use a dabbing motion. Avoid spreading the stain outwards at all costs. An alternative to lighter fuel is eucalyptus oil.
Dust
From time to time vestments may need to be vacuumed to release any dust caught in a weave. When these vestments are in a delicate condition, or contain gold couching or any embroidery, it is advisable to vacuum through a piece of muslin. To do this it is helpful to construct a square wooden frame (about 10” x 10”), stretch over a piece of muslin and staple to the frame. Vacuuming through this will prevent any loose fabric or gold work being lost.